The 2025 Galah Regional Photography exhibition is the latest in a long line of reasons to plan an art-filled break in Armidale. Here’s a local Armadillo’s guide to the New England city.
Words Steph Wanless
HOT chips. Chicken salt. A chocolate thickshake. Dining at its finest, according to my teenage self growing up in Armidale. The location? Rumours on the Mall. It was the place to be, the place all the cool kids went. Not that I was one of them, but there were red booths and an irresistible vibe, so my best mate and I went there.
After we’d inhaled our weekly dose of grease, I’d call my folks from the payphone at the end of the mall (reverse charge 1300-style) and wait for them to pick us up. Back home, we’d sit in our inflatable chairs, listen to INXS and talk rubbish by the light of a lava lamp.
Nostalgia aside, Armidale (and my palate) has come on in leaps and bounds since the fantastic era that was the ’90s. The highest city in Australia (#fact) is home to a range of cafes, bars and restaurants serving a whole lot more than hot chips. I’m talking freshly baked sourdough topped with smashed avo and pistachio dukkah, Portuguese tarts you’d swear were flown in from Portugal, Napoli-style pizza and homegrown brews, gins and vinos to round out the day.
And that’s important, because your day has been a busy one. You’ve most likely been exploring a nearby national park or two, stood mesmerised by a waterfall, had a refreshing dip in the Blue Hole, meandered through shops and galleries on your doorstep and maybe even fossicked for gold. It’s a wild combination of high-altitude, homegrown hospitality, art and culture. And there’s always room for hot chips on the road trip home.
Given you’ll be heading to Armidale for the 2025 Galah Regional Photography exhibition (11 April–8 June) and/or the launch party (Friday 2 May), consider this your insider’s guide to the Dale.
SIX COUNTIES CAFE AND RESTAURANT
Seeing as you’ll already be heading to NERAM, aka the New England Regional Art Museum, for the Galah Regional Photography Prize and exhibition, it’s worth kicking off at its on-site cafe, Six Counties. A nod to the six districts within the New England region, this art-filled space comes with Allpress espresso, a menu featuring seasonal ingredients and a big courtyard surrounded by sculptures and eucalypts. After running several successful venues in Sydney, owner Kevin Harris brought his skillset to the mountains – and the locals are chuffed. Now we get to sample his excellent eggs benny, corn fritters and salads, perhaps warm kale and broccolini with a spiced lentil coconut dressing or the quinoa falafel salad bowl. Food + art + wide open spaces = the regional dream.
106–114 Kentucky St, Armidale
First, a fun fact. The year is 1866 and a professor by the name of Signor Vertelli stretches a 185-metre steel rope across Dangars Gorge, at a height of 180 metres. He proceeds to traverse the gorge several times before collecting an impressive £11 from the onlookers below. He’s an acrobat, a daredevil and most likely a bit of a lunatic, and he’s also an apt namesake for this bustling Italian eatery. Signor Vertelli serves classic, Napoli-style woodfired pizza under the eye of founder, Matt Westhorpe. A slave to high-quality ingredients and some mad dough-throwing skills, Westhorpe and his team create authentic, addictive pizza. I recommend adding to the mix a pear and rocket salad, and burrata served on a bed of shaved fennel. Bellissimo!
5/110 Marsh St, Armidale
If you still have an appetite, pop next door to meet Signor Vertelli’s mistress, Signora Gelato. This is the second delightful offering from the team behind Armidale’s Italiano scene. Signora serves the perfect post-pizza (or let’s face it, anytime) sweet treat made on-site from Hastings Riverlands Jersey milk, a micro-dairy run by fifth-generation farmer Jimmy Eggert. He uses no chemicals or GMOs in his pure, non-homogenised, single-source milk. That’s the good stuff. Dairy not your happy place? There’s a divine selection of sorbets on offer, too.
3/110 Marsh St, Armidale
I’ve watched Goldfish Bowl owner Trent Rush make granola from scratch in the bakery’s woodfired oven, and I still dream about it sometimes. “The Bowl” is an Armidale institution known for its next-level Single Origin coffee, fresh pastries, sourdough and rotating lunch specials made from organic local produce and a whole lot of love in a building you can’t miss (it’s the one with the massive goldfish mural). Go. It’s awesome.
3/160 Rusden St, Armidale
CAFE PATISSERIE AND L’ATELIER PATISSERIE
Speaking of pastries, I must mention Cafe Patisserie, Armidale’s own slice of France in a converted corner store. Owners Nathan and Enora Hooper-Walker are the Australian-French duo behind the venture and it’s proved a winning combination. The original venue is at 80 Rusden Street, but the pair recently opened their second, larger premises on the west side of town called L’Atelier Patisserie. Whichever location you choose, you’ll find the same, delightful menu that’s jam-packed with sweet crepes, savoury galettes, freshly baked pastries and cakes, as well as quiches and pies during the week. Phones at the ready: the pastry cabinet is seriously Insta-worthy.
Cafe Patisserie, 80 Rusden St, Armidale
L’Atelier Patisserie, 242 Rusden St, Armidale
Owner Matt Neary has been a firm fixture on the Armidale coffee scene for years at cafes including local favourite Laneway. He’s since relocated to the east mall with a new name to boot and it’s giving us refreshed, revived vibes. Serving the same Single O Killerbee coffee beans with a delicious side of Black Market Bagels, Double Drop Espresso is a dreamy way to start the day.
126 Beardy St, Armidale
This cafe started life as the Herd Bar in a cute-as-heck vintage caravan serving delicious coffee at local markets. And while (thankfully) that offering still exists, the Herdies crew now has a permanent residence inside the Welder’s Dog Brewery. The win here is the option to transition from coffee to craft beer, from chai to gin, from tea to wine... see what I’m saying? Come for the St Ali coffee and Peach & Wolf cinnamon scrolls, stay for the locally brewed bevvies.
101 Beardy St, Armidale
Armidale is blessed with two Welder’s Dog venues. The original bar, at 120 Marsh Street, is now affectionately known as the Little Dog and delivers a cosy corner to sample craft beers. The second bar, now known as (you guessed it) the Big Dog or, more formally, the Welder’s Dog Brewery and Entertainment Centre, is the cool venue that also houses our aforementioned Herdies mates. The converted car-mechanic garage has become an industrial-chic space to enjoy local beers, wines and spirits alongside regular live music. The best bit? The crew is happy for you to order takeaway from any of Armidale’s eateries to be delivered directly to you at the Big Dog. Yep, that right there is a prime example of why we love where we live.
101 Beardy St, Armidale
If the sun’s shining, grab the closest person with a car/driver’s licence/picnic rug and head five minutes out of Armidale to Peterson’s Winery. It’s the same Peterson family of Hunter Valley and Mudgee fame – we’ve got the goods out here, too. Visit the cellar door that operates from the homestead’s original stables, buy your favourite bottle and order a cheese and antipasti board, then kick back on the venue’s lush lawns.
345 Dangarsleigh Rd, Armidale
If gin’s more your thing and you don’t mind venturing a little further afield, I recommend a trip to Dobson’s Distillery in Kentucky, about 30 minutes’ drive out of town. This family-owned, grain-to-glass distillery has a cocktail and tasting bar, the Speakeasy, open daily. As a big gin fan, I can hand-on-heart say they are all wonderful, but my pick would be the award-winning Sweet Pea version. If the deep purple hue doesn’t lure you, the flavour combo of mandarin, tangelo and grapefruit certainly will.
298 Kentucky Rd, Kentucky
GO BUSH
Your visit to Armidale wouldn’t be complete without a visit to at least one national park, and Oxley Wild Rivers is a good place to start. Stretch your legs on the Dangars Falls walking track and be rewarded by waterfall and gorge views. Come prepared with a picnic lunch or even a barbie and, if you’re up for a dip, plunge into the Blue Hole, the locals’ favourite.
Still keen to go bush but need a playground for the small humans in your life? Dumaresq Dam has recently undergone an impressive facelift and has a great space to keep little feet busy. There’s also a 2.5km-loop walk, barbecue facilities and you can even swim in the dam. It’s golden.
If you fancy hunting for actual gold, you can do that, too. Just six kilometres past Uralla is the Wooldridge Fossicking Area. Grab a gold pan and sieve from the Uralla Visitor Information Centre and head to Kingstown Road, then turn right into Devoncourt Road to find your spot.
DISCOVER LOCAL WARES
The area between Armidale and nearby Uralla is dotted with boutiques and gift shops bursting with regional wares. First, in Armidale, browse Fika for gifts, souvenirs and homewares. Curated by Deb Cartledge, this store is bursting with colour and useful things. Fancy a new frock? Check
out Concepts of Armidale and Turners, both in Richardsons Arcade and, while you’re there, look up for a hit of architectural history – the building has been an Armidale icon since 1904.
In the neighbouring village of Uralla is Seasons of New England, an essential pit-stop. Housed in a beautiful heritage building, this space showcases hundreds of unique, artisan products made by the creative, talented people who call the region home. Next, take a short stroll off the main street to Little Birdy, a collection of independently owned mini stores selling locally made crafts, collectables and antiques from an old aircraft hangar. You’ve got to see it to believe it.
DEVOUR MORE ART
Armadillos (local slang for a person who lives in Armidale) are a cultural bunch. That means there’s a multitude of galleries to check out during your visit to the Galah Regional Photography Prize. In fact, while you’re at NERAM for the big event, steal a moment to soak up the Wonders of Hinton. The semi-permanent display features more than 1000 artworks, a snapshot of Australian artistic practice in the early 20th century.
Nearby is the Aboriginal Cultural Centre and Keeping Place. This not-for-profit is dedicated to preserving the cultural excellence of Indigenous Australia and has regular exhibitions by regional artists. There’s also a beautiful retail space – because there’s always room for another souvenir.
Closer to town is the Armidale Art Gallery, dedicated to works by well-known and emerging local artists across a range of disciplines: paintings, drawings, photography, textiles, sculpture, pottery and jewellery. Then there’s Get Framed Armidale and The Gallery, a relative newcomer to the art scene that hosts regular exhibitions and prints a range of photography and artworks on site. Need to stock up on your own art supplies? Go directly to Gallery 126. Do not pass go, do not collect $200. Located next door to the Goldfish Bowl, it stocks the largest range of artist materials in the region. It’s the good stuff: paints and pastels, brushes, sculpting materials, specialty papers, canvases and more.
Art Deco decor, a premium guest lounge and sunroom, in-house restaurant, pizza garden and cocktail bar are features of Armidale’s renowned Tattersalls. In the heart of town, the hotel’s doors first swung open in 1854 and they’ve been delivering a luxurious accommodation experience ever since. Each room has an ensuite, aircon and – the best bit – white fluffy robes. Fancy.
174 Beardy St, Armidale
If you’re onboard with the heritage feel and prefer some greenery nearby, Lindsay House is a good bet. Dating back to 1917, the historic building overlooks Armidale’s picturesque Central Park with its quaint bandstand, and has five luxuriously decorated bedrooms. The home and practice of Dr Walter Eli Harris for much of its early life, Lindsay House was snapped up by current owners Pam and Harley Payne in 2014, and they’ve since restored the building to its original beauty while adding some modern touches along the way.
128 Faulkner St, Armidale
Keen to travel with a light carbon footprint? Check out Armidale’s first certified carbon-neutral motel. While you’ll be ticking the environmentally conscious box, you’ll also find clean, budget-friendly rooms for solo, duo and family travellers. It’s conveniently located near the CBD – make a note to look up when you pass St Mary’s Cathedral on the stroll into town. It’s a sight to behold.
146 Dangar St, Armidale
Built in 1865, this three-bedroom cottage is the second-oldest house in Armidale, yet it has all the home comforts and modern essentials (think renovated kitchen, bathtub and laundry). The spacious backyard has a patio perfect for Aperol spritzes and is even pet-friendly. Bonus points for the fact it’s just a short stroll to NERAM.
Marsh St, Armidale
If you’ve been holding out for the full country experience, Glenhope Farmstay is calling your name. Just four kilometres from town, the farm’s aptly named garden suite has, well, garden views everywhere you look and is perfectly set up for singles, couples or a small family. But here’s the best bit: alpacas. The farm has alpacas! And you can feed them and learn about them and take home your own souvenir alpaca blanket. I’m excited on your behalf. Lock it in.
59 Red Gum La, Armidale
Rachael Parsons, director of Armidale’s New England Regional Art
Museum, plans a day with her beloved dog, good friends and great food.
MY DREAM DAY begins in my garden. I live on the main street of town so my dog, Theodore, and I will head out into the front yard, look out over Armidale and see what the vibe is for the day. I’ll also check on my roses, see what needs watering or pruning and try to gauge the weather. That can be tricky here. No matter the season, it could change in an instant, so a quick look at my weather app is on the cards, too.
Next, it’s time for breakfast. I love NERAM’s on-site restaurant, Six Counties. They do an amazing breakfast burger – I get both the bacon and the halloumi, because I don’t like making choices. Or, if they’re doing their French toast special, I’ll order it immediately. I don’t know what the secret ingredient is, but it’s so unbelievably delicious and addictive. If it’s a work day and I need to grab something on the go, it’s a large hot chocolate and a ham and cheese croissant. On the weekend, my go-to is Goldfish Bowl Bakery. I love their avocado crush.
If the weather’s good, Theodore and I head out to the Pine Forest for an hour or so, walking around, vibing and hoping we don’t bump into any snakes. He likes to dip his toes into the creeks we pass on our walk, so that’s a really beautiful thing for us to do.
If I have guests, I of course take them to NERAM. It is, in my opinion, the thing to do in Armidale.
Sometimes I’ll also drive to Uralla, just 20 minutes down the road. You arrive at this gorgeous street lined with cute shops and cafes. I like to grab lunch at the Top Pub, where the fire’s roaring in winter. You really can’t go past the bangers and mash – so country, so good. I’ll also have a stroll around the shops (Little Birdy is a favourite), then swing by Eve Flowers to see Mika and grab some fresh blooms.
For an afternoon chill session, my friends and I love to hang out at the Little Dog. My drink of choice is always the Dobson’s Sweet Pea gin and tonic. It’s so refreshing and pretty. We’ve also been enjoying the live music at the Big Dog. I’m not sure if it’s intentional, but their program is so nostalgic – I love it.
If drinks turn into dinner, we’ll head to one of our favourites to sample Asian fusion delights from Paper Tiger or our delicious Nepalese local, Luniva Momo. Like all the super-cool kids born in the ’80s, we’ll wrap up with an ice-cream from Signora Gelato.
Other than that, I love spending time at home and in my garden. That’s the big thing about moving to Armidale from Brisbane: it’s provided me with opportunities I wouldn’t have had in the city. I’ve bought a house, and that house came with a garden. I was always more of a pot-plant person, but now I tend my roses and hydrangeas, I’ve planted trees and have raised garden beds for vegetables. I even have chickens now, named Prada and Gucci, so tomorrow I might start my day with a designer omelette.
The exhibition of finalists in the 2025 Galah Regional Photography Prize is showing at NERAM in Armidale from 11 April–8 June 2025. The announcement of the winner and the party to celebrate regional photography is on 2 May. Buy tickets at galahpress.com
Here are our must-not-miss tips on the trip to the Dale for the 2025 Galah Regional Photography Prize.
SYDNEY TO ARMIDALE I recommend taking the Bucketts Way road through Gloucester for a couple of reasons. First, the scenery is stunning. Second, it takes you past these regional gems.
A small-batch, handcrafted gin distillery on a farm in the village of Allworth. Not that I’m suggesting you drink gin before lunch (the venue also has a great café). Maybe just grab a bottle to enjoy later at your leisure.
A great little cafe in the heart of Gloucester, which is the perfect midway point on the trip for lunch. These guys serve Single Origin coffee, salads and sandwiches to sit and enjoy or grab and go.
Loving your cruisey lunch and want to extend your stay? This eco cabin is designed to deliver serious rustic-luxury vibes. You’ll wake among the trees of the Bucketts, surrounded by mountains, with views stretching across the Barrington and Gloucester River valleys.
BRISBANE TO ARMIDALE It’s the New England Highway all the way for this regional route. Along the way, be sure to press pause in Tenterfield to sample these stellar spots.
Did someone say donuts? Honestly, these guys serve the best gluten-free donut goodness I’ve ever tasted, dusted in cinnamon, sugar and the stuff dreams are made of.
Run by city tree-changers Alistair Blackwell and Karlee McGee, this gem of a bar in Tenterfield won the Drinks List of the Year award in last year’s Good Food Guide. As well as a cellar full of hand-selected local and imported wines, the small bar menu honours growers from the Granite Belt and New England regions.
Want to wake to the aroma of homemade bread? How about sitting down to eat that bread on your back verandah, which happens to have panoramic views of Mount McKenzie? Yep, that’s Carpe Diem Guesthouse, Tenterfield’s premier B&B calling your name.
Bird’s-eye views of the New England region, photography Destination NSW; Tattersalls Hotel has undergone a complete Art Deco renovation, photography by Annabelle Hickson.
Portuguese tarts and sweet treats at Goldfish Bowl Bakery; Local post-dinner treasure Signora Gelato. Photography by Annabelle Hickson.
The Wonders of Hinton (exhibition view), 2023 at New England Regional Art Museum. Photography by Simon Scott; Alfresco action at Stonefruit in Tenterfield. Photography by Sera Wright.
Steph Wanless is the founder of REGGIE, a website dedicated to regional storytelling and go-to guides. youfoundreggie.com.au
